Recipe for Kale Puttanesca (Μακαρονάδα Πουτανέσκα με Κατσαρό Λάχανο)

Kale added to spicy puttanesca sauce makes a surprisingly delicious topping for chewy pasta. We recently enjoyed Kale Puttanesca for dinner and spent the whole meal alternating sounds of satisfaction with “this is really good” and “mmmmm -- I want this again.”

My recipe calls for more capers, garlic, and anchovies than are often used in puttanesca recipes; kale and chewy pasta balance the strong flavors.  Even so, Kale Puttanesca is best served to those, like us, who like assertively seasoned food.

To complement Kale Puttanesca sauce, I used Maccheroni al Ferratto, rustic artisanal pasta, originally from Calabria, that was traditionally shaped around iron umbrella spokes.

Lately, I’ve been comparing regular dried pasta from the supermarket with more expensive “artisanal” pastas found in specialty stores and upscale markets.  All dried pasta is made using extrusion dies, metal patterns that create unique pasta shapes.  However, the dies used to make regular and artisanal pastas differ: regular pasta is made using dies with a Teflon insert and artisanal pasta is made with bronze dies.

Regular pasta has a hard, slick finish, while artisan pasta is rough and uneven: “Traditional dies made entirely of bronze make the pasta surface rough [and more porous], which helps to capture the sauce, whereas the Teflon insert gives the product an even surface and a smoother texture,” according to food scientists. On the other hand, makers of Teflon-die pasta claim “the rougher surface [of bronze-die pasta] allows cooking water to penetrate too quickly, making for less-than-ideal quality.”

The two types of pasta also differ in how they’re dried. Regular pasta is dried in ovens “the size of a football field” for 2-4 hours over high heat.  Artisanal pasta is dried for 24 to 50-plus hours “in very warm (but never hot), humid environments in which moisture can be reduced slowly, without damaging the texture of the finished product.”

I prefer artisanal pasta with very simple pasta sauces, such as oil and garlic, where the texture of the pasta makes a significant difference. I also prefer artisanal pasta in dishes, like Kale Puttanesca, that call for thicker, chewier pastas.  For all other purposes (and when I don’t want to spend the money on artisanal pasta) I happily use regular dried pasta from the supermarket.

No matter what type of pasta you use, be sure to cook it al dente; soft, overdone pasta is the bane of even the best pasta sauce.

Kale Puttanesca  (Μακαρονάδα Πουτανέσκα με Κατσαρό Λάχανο)

Serves 4

Any sturdy green, wild or domesticated, can be substituted for kale. The amount of crushed red pepper depends on how spicy you like your food.

Sauce:

1 bunch kale

3 Tbsp. capers, preferably salt-cured

3 Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

10 anchovy fillets, minced

1/2-1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

2 14.5 ounce cans diced tomatoes, with juice

1/2 cup oil-cured black olives or throumbes, pitted and roughly chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

12-16 ounces Machheroni al Ferratto or other chewy-style pasta

Wash the kale to remove any dirt.  Strip the greens from the tough center kale stems. Shred the kale greens and discard the stems (or save them for another use).

Rinse the capers well. If using salt-cured capers, soak them in a bowl of cold water for at least 10 minutes.

Fill a large pot with enough water to cook the pasta, salt it well, and put on a burner over high heat.

Heat the olive oil until it's just warmed though, using a pan large enough to hold all the ingredients. (If oil is too hot, garlic will burn; it’s best to warm the oil over medium heat.) Stir in the garlic, anchovies, and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, olives, freshly ground black pepper, shredded kale, and drained capers. Bring to a boil, cover, turn down the heat, and simmer for 20-30 minutes, or until the kale is tender.

While the sauce is cooking, and when the salted water reaches a full boil, cook the pasta until it’s al dente (exact cooking time depends on the type of pasta).  Reserve 1 cup of pasta cooking water. Drain the pasta.

When the kale is tender, stir in the cooked pasta, making sure all of it is coated with sauce. Taste and add freshly ground black pepper, as needed. If the sauce is too thick for your taste, thin it with a little pasta cooking water. 

Serve immediately with plenty of crusty bread and a crisp green salad.
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This is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging, sponsored by Haalo and hosted this week by Winnie from Healthy Green Kitchen.

Recipes: Pan-Fried Salmon with Curly Endive and Christmas Lima Beans & Christmas Lima Bean Salad

Christmas lima beans, with their speckled, swirled coats of maroon and cream, are one of the world’s most beautiful dried beans. When properly cooked, their texture is firm and their taste nutty.

Christmas limas are a perfect foil for strong, spicy flavors and are robust enough to serve on their own as a salad, spread, side dish, or main course. They go particularly well with wild mushrooms, bitter greens, and strong-flavored fish like salmon or mackerel.

The

Ark of Taste is a list of endangered food plants and animals that the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity seeks to protect and defend. Christmas limas (Phaseolus lunatus), also known as chestnut limas, are now on the Ark of Taste list for the United States.

According to the Ark of Taste website, “gastronomic accounts date the Christmas Lima Bean to the 1840s when it was especially popular in the southwestern region of the US. … It is used in both its mature green state as a shelled Lima for eating fresh, freezing or canning as well as used dried, and cooked into stews and casseroles. The Christmas Lima is very successful in the high desert environments of the southwest. They are hardy, heat tolerant and very productive—a bean known for its yield and versatility.”

A couple days ago, I found myself with time to kill at Natural Pantry, an Anchorage store that started as a health food/vitamin store. Over the years, without my noticing it, Natural Pantry has added an extensive line of gourmet and specialty food products. Each aisle brought new surprises. I left with two full bags of hard-to-find-in-Anchorage ingredients, including a package of Christmas Lima Beans. I’ll definitely return to Natural Pantry, sooner rather than later.

One final, but important, note: Dried Christmas lima beans are delicious. Other than genes, they have nothing in common with the nasty green limas I remember from childhood.

Pan-Fried Salmon with Curly Endive and Christmas Lima Beans
Serves 4
Christmas Lima Bean Salad may be made well-ahead. If it is, this dish makes a quick weekday meal. Before serving refrigerated bean salad, remove it from the refrigerator at least 1 hour, or put it in the microwave on medium for approximately 2 minutes.

1 pound wild-caught salmon fillets
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 head curly endive (approximately 8 cups cleaned and chopped)
1/4 cup chiffonade-cut fresh mint
1 recipe Christmas Lima Bean Salad (see recipe below)

Wash the salmon and dry it well. Using needle-nosed pliers, remove as many pin-bones from the fillet as possible. Skin the fish, if necessary, and cut it into 4 even pieces. Season the fillets on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Let the seasoned fish rest for 30 minutes at room temperature before cooking.

While the fish is resting, wash the curly endive, dry it well, and roughly chop it into bite-sized pieces. In a large bowl, toss the curly endive with the mint and Christmas Lima Bean Salad. Taste and add salt or freshly ground black pepper, as needed. Divide the endive and bean mix between 4 plates.Heat the olive oil in a pan until it is hot, but not smoking. Turn the heat to medium high, and add the salmon. Cook for 3 – 5 minutes, or until the pan side of the salmon is lightly browned. Turn over and cook for 1 - 3 minutes, or until the salmon is done to your taste. The exact cooking time depends on the fillets’ thickness; keep in mind that salmon tastes better slightly underdone than it does when it's overdone.
Place the hot salmon fillets on top of the endive and bean beds. Serve immediately.

Christmas Lima Bean Salad
Serves 4-6
The amount of jalapeño in the dressing, and whether you include the jalapeños’ seeds (which add heat), depends on how spicy you like your food. I last made this with 2 jalapeños including the seeds, and it was pleasantly spicy. My husband would’ve preferred it with 3 whole jalapeños. If you don’t like spicy food, remove the seeds before adding the jalapeños. Keep in mind that jalapeños are not uniformly hot. If your jalapeños are too mild, add a little sambal oelek or crushed red pepper flakes to make a spicier dressing. I prefer the taste of capers preserved in salt to those preserved in brine (although either works here), and usually rinse and soak the capers to remove excess salt. However, for this dressing, I used the capers salt and all, and didn’t separately add salt to the dressing.

Beans:
1 cup dried Christmas lima beans (6 ounces dried or 2 1/2 cups cooked)
5 bay leaves
Water

Dressing:
2-3 red or green jalapeño peppers
4 tsp. capers, preferably salted
2 garlic cloves
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
3/4 cup olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Salad:
1 cup thinly sliced red onion
1/2 cup chiffonade-cut fresh mint

Cook the Beans: Place the beans in a large pot, cover them with lots of water, and let soak overnight. The next day, drain and rinse the beans. Return them to the pot; add the bay leaves and enough water to cover the beans by 3 inches. Bring to a boil, cover, turn down the heat to low, and simmer the beans for 60-90 minutes, just until the flesh is tender (be careful not to cook the beans until they are mushy). Drain the beans, reserving the bean cooking water (see Note below).

Make the Dressing: While the beans are cooking, purée the jalapeños, capers, garlic, and red wine vinegar in a blender. Add the oil to the other ingredients slowly, while the blender is running. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Make the Salad: Mix the cooked Christmas lima beans with the dressing, red onions, and fresh mint. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Note on Bean Cooking Water: If I’m not using it right away, I freeze bags of bean cooking water and use it instead of stock in soup and stew recipes. The cooking water from Christmas lima beans tastes particularly good, and is definitely worth saving.

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This is my entry for My Legume Love Affair – 9th Edition (MLLA9) which I am hosting this month and which was created by Susan of The Well-Seasoned Cook.

About Pancetta with Recipes for Pasta with Squash, Arugula, and Pancetta & Pasta with Pork in Garlic-Wine Sauce (Ιταλική Πανσέτα με Ζυμαρικά)

Alaska has been having a cold snap.

I imagine many of you thinking, “So what else is new?” Even though Alaskans expect and are used to cold weather, the last couple weeks really have been colder than usual. To see what cold weather looks like, check out Marc Lester's lovely photo-essay showing Southcentral Alaska’s chilly wonderland.

Hearty food, including pasta, is a good antidote for cold weather blues. One of my favorite ways to boost the flavor of winter pasta sauces is adding pancetta (cured Italian pork belly). Only a small amount of pancetta is needed improve the taste of savory sauces (a corollary to the principle that everything tastes better with bacon).

Salumi's hand-crafted pancetta

Pancetta is often sold in packages of very thinly cut pre-sliced meat. Although I use pre-sliced pancetta in a pinch, I mostly buy pancetta direct from the deli counter. I ask for either a chunk of pancetta, which I hand slice and dice at home, or have the deli staff cut the pancetta into slices the thickness of regular bacon. With thicker slices, eaters enjoy bursts of pancetta flavor when devouring the sauce; thinner slices tend to melt into the other flavors.

I was recently at Seattle’s Metropolitan Market where I bought several pounds of hand-crafted pancetta from Salumi Artisan-Cured Meats. This is far and away the best pancetta I’ve ever eaten; Salumi’s hand-rolled pancetta is meaty, with superior texture and flavor. Although more expensive than pre-sliced pancetta, Salumi’s product is well worth the price, and may be ordered online.

Two delicious pasta sauces that benefit from pancetta are Pasta with Squash, Arugula, and Pancetta and Pasta with Pork in Garlic-Wine Sauce. Either is just right for even the coldest winter day.

Pasta with Squash, Arugula, and Pancetta
Serves 4
Inspired by Cookthink
If using artisan-cured pancetta, it may be quite salty, so be careful not to over-salt the other components of the dish.

Squash:
1 small Kabocha, butternut, or other winter squash, peeled and cut into 3/4” chunks (4 cups)
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Pancetta and Onions:
3 thick slices pancetta, cut in 1/2” dice (1/2 cup)
2 Tbsp. olive oil
3 cups diced onion, 1/2” dice
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. minced fresh garlic
2 Tbsp. minced fresh sage

Pasta:
1/2 pound casarecci or similarly shaped pasta
4 cups arugula, cleaned and roughly chopped
1 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

Make the Squash: Preheat the oven to 515°F. On a baking sheet with rims, toss the squash cubes with olive oil, salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Put the squash in the oven and immediately turn the heat down to 475°F. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, turning the squash cubes halfway though, until the squash is cooked through and lightly browned.

Put a large pot of salted water on a burner over high heat.

Make the Onions and Pancetta: Sauté the pancetta in olive oil until it begins to brown. Stir in the onions and freshly ground black pepper, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan, and sauté until the onions soften. If the onions start sticking to the bottom of the pan, add 1/4 – 1/2 cup water. When the onions are lightly browned, stir in the garlic and sage and keep warm over very low heat.

Make the Pasta: Add the pasta to the boiling salted water and cook until it is al dente. While the pasta is cooking, put the arugula in a large bowl. When the pasta is done, remove 1 cup of pasta cooking water, drain the pasta well, and put the drained pasta on top of the arugula in the bowl. Add the roasted squash and cooked onions to the bowl and toss all the ingredients well. If the dish is too dry, add as much of the pasta cooking water as necessary (usually 1/4 - 1/2 cup). Taste and add freshly ground black pepper or salt, as needed.

Serve sprinkled with freshly grated parmesan cheese.

Pasta with Pork in Garlic-Wine Sauce
Serves 4
Spruce vinegar and salt-cured spruce buds add interesting highlights to the sauce, but aren’t necessary to the success of the dish. If you’re among the 99.99% of people who don’t have either ingredient, red wine vinegar and capers work equally well. For capers, I prefer the taste of salt-cured; when I can’t find salt-cured, I use capers in brine. If using artisan-cured pancetta or salt-cured capers, they may be quite salty, so be careful not to over-salt. Bacon may be substituted for pancetta; it adds a pleasant smoky flavor.

Sauce:
1 pork tenderloin (about 1 pound), cut in 3/4” dice
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1/2 tsp. black peppercorns, crushed
1 Tbsp. spruce vinegar or red wine vinegar
3 thick slices pancetta, cut in 1/4” dice (1/2 cup)
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 cup finely diced onion, 1/8” dice
1/4 cup sun-dried or regular tomato paste
1 Tbsp. salt-cured spruce buds or capers, well-rinsed and minced
3/4 cup dry red wine
2 cups chicken stock

Pasta:
1/2 pound gemelli or similarly shaped pasta
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

Mix the pork, garlic, peppercorns, and vinegar and let marinate at least 1 hour (overnight is fine).

Sauté the pancetta in olive oil until it begins to brown. Add the pork mixture and cook until the pork is browned on all sides. Stir in the onion, using the moisture in the onions to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Continue cooking until the onions soften and begin to turn golden. Stir in the tomato paste until it is thoroughly combined. Mix in the wine and cook until it is reduced by half. Stir in the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for 40 - 45 minutes, until the sauce slightly thickens. Taste and add salt or freshly ground black pepper, as needed.

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water until it is al dente. Drain the pasta and toss it with the pork sauce. Serve sprinkled with freshly grated parmesan cheese.

The road we live on

From a Volcanic Isle with Recipe for Shrimp Santorini in Tomato and Caper Sauce (Γαρίδες Σαντορίνης)

White-washed houses, bright blue skies, sun sparkling on the sea, and brilliant sunsets. Some of Greece’s most iconic images are of Santorini.

Santorini is an island in the southern Aegean Sea and a regular stop for cruise ships wending their way through the Greek isles. Although it's jam-packed with tourists during the summer months, visitors to Santorini, dazzled by its dramatic beauty, write glowingly about their time on the island.

Modern Santorini was shaped by a violent volcanic eruption that occurred around 1500 BC. The volcano blew away the center of the island, forming a huge caldera. Some have theorized that Santorini is the site of mythical Atlantis, and the eruption is what caused Atlantis to be swallowed by the sea. Santorini’s volcano is still active.

Two years ago, we visited Santorini in early April. Because the season had not yet begun, we often had Santorini’s narrow village streets to ourselves. Many of the shops were closed. We had a great time.

The shopkeepers and restaurant owners were happy to see us, not yet jaded by a full season of tending tourists. Over glasses of Santorini’s crisp Assyrtiko white wine, our hotel’s owner told us about the island’s bone-dry volcanic soil and the crops that thrive in it.

“Waterless” tomatoes, capers, yellow split peas (called fava in Greece), and wine grapes are Santorini’s most important agricultural products. When we left, my bags were packed with jars of sun-dried Santorini tomatoes, dried capers, pickled caper leaves, and a kilo of fava.

One of the best things I ate on Santorini was locally-caught Shrimp in Tomato and Caper Sauce. The intense taste of Santorini’s sun-dried tomatoes boosted the sauce’s tomato flavor, and tangy capers made the dish truly special.

Shrimp Santorini in Tomato and Caper Sauce (Γαρίδες Σαντορίνης)
Serves 4
Capers are salty, so don’t add too much salt until after you’ve tasted the sauce with capers in it. Shrimp stay more tender when cooked at low temperature. No matter the temperature, shrimp cook quickly and must be watched carefully to prevent them from overcooking and getting tough. My husband likes this with a little fresh lemon juice squeezed over; I prefer it without.

Tomato Sauce:
1 1/2 cups diced onions, 1/4” dice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. Aleppo pepper (optional)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes or 1 1/2 cups fresh, with juices
1 1/2 cups water
1 bay leaf
2 tsp. oregano
3 Tbsp. minced sun-dried tomatoes in oil or 1 1/2 Tbsp. tomato paste
3 Tbsp. capers, preferably salted, rinsed and soaked to remove excess salt

Shrimp:
1 1/2 pounds shrimp, shelled
Lemon wedges (optional)

Sauté the onions, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in olive oil until the onions soften and start to turn golden. Stir in the Aleppo pepper and cook for 1 minute. Add the white wine and boil until it is reduced by half. Stir in the tomatoes, water, bay leaf, and oregano. Bring to a boil, cover, turn down the heat, and simmer for 45 – 60 minutes or until the sauce thickens and its flavors meld together. If the sauce is too thick, add a little water. Turn off the heat and stir in the sun-dried tomatoes and capers. Taste and add salt or freshly ground black pepper, as needed. (This can be made well ahead.)

Wash and dry the shrimp. Season them on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring the sauce to a simmer and add the shrimp. Cook just until the shrimp turn pink, about 5 minutes total for medium-sized shrimp. Serve immediately with chunks of feta cheese, oil-cured black olives, a crisp green salad, and plenty of crusty bread for mopping up the sauce.
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This is my entry for Antioxidant Rich Foods/Five-a-Day Tuesdays hosted by Sweetnicks.

Recipe: Carrots with Capers (Kαρότα με Kάπαρης)

When I want an easy, reliable, colorful vegetable side, I make Carrots with Capers adapted from Marcella Hazan's More Classic Italian Cooking. It goes particularly well with roast meat or chicken.

I’ve made it for 2 and I’ve made it for 100. Over the last 30 years, I’ve made this dish hundreds of times. It’s never been anything other than wonderful.

Marcella explains why: “The tart corrective of the capers is just what the carrots need to add a little zip to their otherwise passive sweetness. And their gentleness, in turn, tempers the tonic bite of the capers.”

I've changed Marcella's original recipe by upping the parsley, garlic, and capers. Because the garlic is cooked in water, its flavor in the finished dish is quite mild.

Try it. You won’t be sorry.

Carrots with Capers (Kαρότα με Kάπαρης)
Serves 4
Adapted from More Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan (Alfred A. Knopf 1978)
Adding the water a little at a time keeps the carrots from getting waterlogged; it's the same principle as adding broth to risotto in stages. The carrots may be cooked ahead, reheated, and the capers added at the last minute, but the carrots taste better if cooked right before serving. Since capers are salted, be careful not to oversalt at the beginning.

1 pound carrots
1/4 cup capers, preferably salt-cured
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1/4 cup minced parsley
1 – 1 1/2 cups water

Wash the carrots, peel them, and cut off the tops and bottoms. Cut into lengths the size and width of a woman’s little finger.

If using salt-preserved capers, rinse off the salt and let them soak in cold water for 10 – 15 minutes, and rinse them again. If using brined capers, rinse off the brine. Dry the capers and reserve.

Sauté the carrots, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in olive oil for 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and parsley and cook for 1 minute. Stir in 1/4 cup water and cook until the water completely evaporates. Continue adding 1/4 cups of water and evaporating it until the carrots are done. This takes 10 – 20 minutes; cook until the carrots are tender but firm.

When the carrots are done, brown them lightly in the oil remaining in the pan after the water is gone. Stir in the capers and cook for 1 minute. Taste and add salt or freshly ground black pepper, as needed. Serve immediately.
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This is my entry for Antioxidant Rich Foods/Five-a-Day Tuesdays hosted by Sweetnicks.

Recipes: Santorini Fava Pie with Tomatoes, Capers, and Eggs & Fava Pantremeni (Σαντορίνη Φάβα Πίτες με Ντομάτες, Κάπαρης και Αυγά & Φάβα Παντρεμένη)

Let’s clear up the linguistic confusion first.

In English, fava refers to Vicia faba, large beans in long green pods that are also known as broad beans or horse beans in English (in Greek, they're called koukia). This article is not about Vicia faba.

Today I’m writing about Greek fava, Lathyrus clymenum L., a variety of yellow split pea that has been grown on the Aegean island of Santorini for at least 3500 years. In Greek, the word “fava” can refer to either the dried split peas or the appetizer spread that is made from them.

Although fava is grown across Greece, Santorini fava are slightly sweeter than those grown elsewhere and are widely considered to have superior flavor. Santorini is also famous for its “waterless” tomatoes and its capers; Santorini Fava Pie uses all three ingredients.

The crust for the pie is made from puréed fava, and is a good way to use up leftovers. To make the crust, cooked fava is mixed with semolina flour, pressed into a tart pan, and baked until it’s slightly crispy. Baked fava develops a wonderfully nutty flavor that enhances the filling ingredients. Because it doesn’t need to be rolled out, fava crust is simple to make.

Puréed fava is also the base of Fava Pantremeni, or “Married” Fava. The name refers to the wedding of fava and capers, two very compatible ingredients, in a single dish. The below recipe for Fava Pantremeni is based on a dish we ate last summer at Logia tis Ploris, an Athenian fish taverna.

Although it's difficult to find fava outside of Greece, yellow split peas are a fine substitute.

Santorini Fava Pies with Tomatoes, Capers, and Eggs (Σαντορίνη Φάβα Πίτες με Ντομάτες, Κάπαρης και Αυγά)
Serves 6 as an appetizer
Adapted from Simply Plated 2

Crust:
1 1/2 cups fava purée (see recipe below)
6 – 10 Tbsp. semolina flour

Tomato Filling:
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 cups thinly sliced onions, cut in quarter moon slices
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. Aleppo pepper (optional)
1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes, or 1 1/2 cups fresh, with juices
1/4 cup water
1 bay leaf
2 tsp. oregano
3 Tbsp. minced sun-dried tomatoes in oil or 1 1/2 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 Tbsp. capers, preferably salted, rinsed and soaked

6 eggs

Make the Crust: Taste the fava purée and add salt, pepper, or oregano, as needed; the crust should be well-seasoned or the pie will be bland. Stir in 6 Tbsp. of semolina flour, and additional flour as needed to make dough that is the texture of thick mashed potatoes; the amount of flour depends on the moisture level of the fava purée. Taste again to make sure the seasoning is correct. (This can be made ahead.)

Make the Filling: Sauté the onions, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in the olive oil until the onions soften and start to turn golden. Stir in the Aleppo pepper and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, water, bay leaves, and oregano. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer for 45 – 60 minutes, or until the sauce is thick and most of the liquid has evaporated. Turn off the heat and stir in the sun-dried tomatoes and capers. Taste and add salt or freshly ground black pepper, as needed. (This can be made ahead.)

Make the Pie: Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Light grease 6 small tart pans (I prefer 4.5” tart pans with removable bottoms). Divide the fava dough between the pans. Press out the dough to completely cover the bottom and sides of the pan. Bake for 10 – 15 minutes, or until the crusts are lightly browned and crispy around the edges. Turn down the oven to 350°F.

Fill each baked crust with tomato filling, making an indentation in the filling that is deep enough to hold an egg. Crack an egg into a small bowl and carefully pour it into the indentation. Repeat until all the eggs are used. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Bake for 12 – 15 minutes, or just until the eggs are set; the yolks should be runny and the whites soft. Remove pies from the tart pans and serve immediately.

Fava Pantremeni (Φάβα Παντρεμένη)
If you don’t have access to Greek fava, yellow split peas are the best substitute I’ve found.

Fava Purée:
1/2 cup Santorini fava or yellow split peas
6 Tbsp. olive oil
1 cup diced onion, 1/4” dice
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 cups water
1 tsp. oregano
1 Tbsp. lemon juice

Pantremeni Ingredients:
1/2 cup diced onion, 1/8” dice
3 Tbsp. lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling
4 tsp. oregano
1/4 cup capers, rinsed and dried
1/4 cup diced tomatoes, 1/8” dice (optional)

Make the Fava Purée: Put the fava in a strainer and rinse under cold running water. Sauté the onions, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in 1/4 cup olive oil until the onions soften and start to turn golden. Stir in the rinsed fava and water, bring to a boil, turn down the heat, and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours until the fava turns into a thick purée. Stir the fava regularly to make sure it isn’t sticking to the bottom of the pan, particularly towards the end of the cooking time.

When the fava is the thickness you desire, turn off the heat and stir in the oregano, lemon juice, and remaining 2 Tbsp. olive oil. Taste and add salt, as needed. Cover with a dish towel and let cool to room temperature. (At this stage, the purée is ready to be used in Santorini Fava Pie, above.)

Make the Fava Pantremeni: Stir the diced onion, lemon juice, and olive oil into the Fava Purée. Spread the purée out on a plate. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle the oregano over the purée, then the capers, and then the tomatoes (if using).

Serve with a bowl of olives and crusty bread, or as part of an appetizer spread.
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This is my entry for My Legume Love Affair – 9th Edition (MLLA9), created by Susan of The Well-Seasoned Cook, which I am hosting in March 2009.

Recipes: Butternut Squash and Pancetta Risotto & Pan Fried Scallops and Capers (Κολοκύθα Ριζότο με Ιταλική Πανσέτα & Χτένια με Κάπαρης)

When I first started making risotto, Arborio rice wasn’t available in Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city. Because Arborio, a short-grain Italian rice, makes superior risotto, I imported it in my luggage or by mail-order. In those years, risotto was special occasion fare.

More recently, local stores stocked Arborio rice, but charged a premium for it. Although it became a pantry staple, ever cost-conscious, I still limited how often I made this toothsome treat.

Last month, our local Costco began selling imported Arborio rice in 3 kilo (6.6 pound) boxes for a very reasonable price. Now I guiltlessly make risotto whenever I want.

The firm, yet creamy, texture of perfectly cooked risotto is the perfect foil for vegetables of all kinds. Combined with beets or squash, risotto is warming winter fare. In spring, I like it with peas or artichokes. In summer, I look forward to lighter risottos flavored with basil or lemons.

Yesterday, I needed to use a butternut squash that had been sitting on the counter for way too long. I also had a handful of leftover sea scallops. It was definitely time to make an old favorite: Butternut Squash Risotto with Pan-Fried Scallops.

Black-pepper pancetta from Salumi and salt-cured capers, booty from a recent trip to Seattle, rounded out my list of risotto ingredients. The result was an attractive, full-flavored dish that we enjoyed for a mid-week meal and that would be perfect for serving to company.

Butternut Squash and Pancetta Risotto (Κολοκύθα Ριζότο με Ιταλική Πανσέτα)
Serves 4 - 6
Butternut Squash and Pancetta Risotto makes a filling meal served on its own with a light salad. It pairs well with seafood; see recipe below for Pan-Fried Scallops and Capers, a lovely partner for the risotto. To make vegetarian Butternut Squash Risotto, leave out the pancetta, sauté the onions in olive oil, and use vegetable stock. To make the vegetarian version extra special, stir in a little truffle oil just before serving.

Squash:
1 1/4 pound butternut squash (1 pound cleaned; 3 cups cut in 3/4” dice)
3 Tbsp. olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Risotto:
1/2 cup diced pancetta, 1/4" dice
1 cup diced onion, 1/4” dice
Salt (if the pancetta is very salty, omit the salt)
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup Arborio rice
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 cup dry white wine
1 Tbsp. minced fresh thyme, sage, or rosemary
4 – 5 cups vegetable or chicken stock
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat oven to 450°F.

Roasting the Squash: Remove the squash skin with a knife or vegetable peeler, cut in half, remove the seeds, and cut into 3/4” dice. Put the diced squash on a rimmed baking sheet and toss it with salt, freshly ground black pepper, and 2 tbsp. olive oil. Bake for 20 – 25 minutes or until the squash is browned on at least one side. Remove from the oven and place in a strainer to drain off excess oil. (The recipe may be made ahead to this point.)

Making the Risotto: In a sauté pan large enough to hold the finished risotto, sauté the pancetta until the fat renders and the pancetta begins to brown. Stir in the onions, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and sauté until the onions soften and begin to turn golden. Stir in the rice so it is completely coated with oil and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the garlic and cook for one minute. Add the wine; bring to a medium boil and cook, stirring, until the wine is almost absorbed. Stir in the roasted squash.

Add 1/2 cup of stock and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until the stock is almost absorbed. Keep adding stock, 1/2 cup at a time, and stirring until each addition of stock is almost absorbed. When the rice is half done, stir in the thyme. (The recipe can be made ahead to this point, and finished right before serving. If you are going to make it ahead, after you take the rice off the burner, stir it until it cools down.)

Continue adding stock, 1/2 cup at a time, and stirring until the rice is tender, but still firm in the center (this takes 18 – 22 minutes). There may be stock left over. Stir in 1/2 cup of grated parmesan. Add stock until the risotto is the consistency you desire; it should be moist and creamy, not dry. Taste and add salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed.

Serve immediately with the remaining grated parmesan on the side for sprinkling on top.

Pan Fried Scallops and Capers with Butternut Squash Risotto (Χτένια και Κάπαρης με Κολοκύθα Ριζότο)
Serves 6
Don’t start cooking the scallops until the risotto is done.

1 recipe Roasted Butternut Squash Risotto (see above)
2 Tbsp. capers (preferably preserved in salt)
12 large scallops (about 1 pound)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. olive oil
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

If using salt-preserved capers, rinse off the salt and let them soak in cold water for 10 – 15 minutes, and then rinse them again. If using brined capers, rinse off the brine. Dry the capers.

Wash the scallops, removing any tough muscle clinging to the scallops' sides. Dry and season them on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat the olive oil over high heat in a frying pan large enough to hold all the scallops. When the oil is very hot, add the seasoned scallops, and cook for 2 – 3 minutes, depending on the scallops’ size. Turn the scallops over and cook for 2 – 3 minutes more. Except for turning them over the one time, do not move the scallops or fidget with them while they cook. The scallops will brown better if they aren’t repeatedly turned.

While the scallops are cooking, warm up 6 plates (this is easiest to do in a microwave; put the dry plates in the microwave for 1 minute on high). Place equal amounts of risotto on each of the warmed plates.

When the scallops are done, turn off the heat and top each serving of risotto with two scallops. Stir the lemon juice and capers into the still-warm pan, scraping up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom.

Top each scallop with a drizzle of pan juices and a sprinkling of capers. Serve immediately.

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Τhis is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging hosted this week by Kel from Green Olive Tree.

Recipe: Gravlax

Gravlax, salmon cured in sugar and salt until it is silky smooth, is expensive to buy, but easy to make. Once the fish is filleted, it takes about 10 minutes to put the gravlax together. Two or three days later, you'll have perfectly cured fish.

I make gravlax from sea-caught wild Alaska salmon, the best tasting salmon I’ve ever had. Its great taste reflects the salmon’s varied diet and the clean environment in which it grows to maturity.

Wild Alaska salmon is on the Top 10 list of “Eco-best” fish to eat because it comes from healthy, well-managed fish populations and is caught with low-impact fishing gear. In contrast, farmed salmon is on the Top 10 list of “Eco-worst” fish due to the impact of salmon farms on the environment and the elevated levels of PCBs in the fish.

We live within driving distance of the sea waters where wild Alaska salmon congregate. By the end of summer, our freezer contains a year’s supply of fish caught by my husband and his friends. I’ve previously described how we freeze salmon and how best to thaw it.




Gravlax
Makes two sides of gravlax
This recipe makes enough curing mix for two 2 – 3 pound sides of filleted salmon. You can easily make the recipe with a 1 – 2 pound salmon fillet: cut the curing mix in half and the curing time to 24 to 36 hours. Once cured, gravlax should be stored in the refrigerator or freezer. I crack the peppercorns in a mortar and pestle, but you can also do it by whacking the peppercorns with a meat mallet.






 

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Recipes: Roasted Beet and Thyme Risotto & Halibut Confit with Lemons and Capers (Παντζάρια Ριζότο με Θυμάρι & Ψάρια Κονφί με Λεμόνι και Κάπαρης)

A couple days ago I read a recipe for beet gnocchi that caught my imagination. That night, I had yet another bout of insomnia. Instead of sleeping I thought about beets and gnocchi, and beets and pasta, and beets and rice.

Beets and rice: why not beet risotto? Once I thought of it, I could almost taste the earthy sweetness of beets in a creamy risotto, laced generously with Parmesan cheese and fresh thyme. I had to make it.

Luckily, there were beets in my last Full Circle Farm CSA box. I had previously roasted the beets to concentrate their flavor, which simplified the task of making beet risotto.

I paired the risotto with Pacific halibut poached in olive oil, known around my house as Halibut Confit. The recipe originally came from Gourmet Magazine; I remember Ruth Reichl writing it was one of her much-loved dishes. It is definitely my favorite way to cook halibut that’s been frozen.

Even when fresh, halibut can be dry; freezing makes this problem worse. However, when previously frozen halibut is cooked while submerged in olive oil, it stays moist - so long as you don't overcook it. This is because its juices can’t evaporate into the air, and stay in the fish under the protective coating of olive oil. Although the recipe uses a lot of olive oil, the fish doesn’t absorb the oil, and is not at all oily.

To avoid waste, I always strain the lemony oil and reuse it. Surprisingly, the oil doesn’t take up the flavor of the fish. The flavored oil makes wonderful salad dressing, and can be used in any dish that benefits from lemon.

To serve, I spread the beet risotto on plates, and topped each serving with a chunk of tender halibut. I spooned capers and parsley over the fish, and garnished the plates with the oil-poached lemon slices that cooked with the fish.

The result was better than I imagined. Every bite contained flavor bursts that excited my taste buds. The capers were so good with the beet risotto I returned to the kitchen and spooned extra capers and parsley out of the olive oil.

The dishes pair amazingly well; each compliments and improves the other. However, the two don’t need to be served together to taste wonderful.

Roasted Beet and Thyme Risotto would be good served with a salad for a light supper, or as an accompaniment to chicken or turkey. Halibut Confit is an excellent way to cook halibut, no matter what side dishes are served with it. It’s been on my permanent recipe rotation since it first appeared in Gourmet, seven years ago.

Roasted Beet and Thyme Risotto (Παντζάρια Ριζότο με Θυμάρι)
Serves 6
Fresh thyme is an integral part of this dish, and is worth seeking out.

7 – 8 cups vegetable or chicken stock
2 cups diced onion, 1/4” dice
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
1/4 cup minced garlic
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups roasted and grated beets (2 medium beets) (see Note below)
1/4 cup minced fresh thyme
1 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring the stock to a simmer, or heat it in the microwave until it is warm.

Sauté the onion, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, until it softens and begins to turn golden. Stir in the rice so it is completely coated with oil and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the wine, and stir until it is almost absorbed. Stir in the grated beets.

Add 1/2 cup of stock and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until the stock is almost absorbed. Keep adding stock, 1/2 cup at a time, and stirring until each addition of stock is almost absorbed. When the rice is half done, stir in the thyme. (The recipe can be made ahead to this point, and finished right before serving. If you are going to make it ahead, after you take the rice off the burner, stir it until it cools down.)

Continue adding stock and stirring until the rice is tender, but still firm in the center (this takes 18 – 22 minutes). There may be stock left over. Stir in the cheese. Add stock until the risotto is the consistency you desire; it should be moist and creamy, not dry. Taste and add salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed.

NOTE on Roasting Beets: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Wash the beets, cut off the greens leaving an inch of stem (don't cut into the beet itself), rub the beets with olive oil, and wrap tightly in a foil packet (or place in a tightly covered baking dish). Bake for 40 minutes to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the size of the beets and how fresh they are. The beets are done when they're tender if poked with a knife or skewer. Let the beets cool, and slip off their skins (I wear gloves when I do this to protect my hands from staining). (These can be made ahead and kept in the refrigerator for about a week.)

Halibut Confit with Lemons and Capers (Ψάρια Κονφί με Λεμόνι και Κάπαρης)
Serves 4 - 6
Adapted from March 2000 Gourmet magazine
Because it is cooked at such a low temperature, the olive oil can be reused. It picks up the flavor of lemons, but not of fish.

2 pounds halibut fillets, skinned
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup capers, 1/4 c. roughly chopped and 1/4 c. left whole
1/2 cup minced parsley
2-3 lemons, sliced 1/8” thick
1 1/2 – 2 1/2 cups olive oil

Preheat oven to 250°F.

Wash and dry the halibut. Season it on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Using a glass baking dish just large enough to hold the halibut, line the bottom with lemon slices. Put the fish on top of the lemon slices. Mix the capers and parsley together, and spread evenly on top of the halibut. Cover the fish and herbs with a layer of lemon slices. Pour enough olive oil over to completely cover everything.

Bake for 45 to 70 minutes depending on the thickness of the halibut fillets. After 45 minutes, remove the pan of fish from the oven, carefully lift up a few lemons, and test for doneness. The fish will flake easily if it is done. If the fish isn’t done, return it to the oven. Halibut is dry when overcooked, so be careful not to leave it in the oven for too long. Remember the oil is hot and cools down slowly, so the fish will continue to cook if you leave it in the oil, even after the pan is taken out of the oven.

Serve the halibut with some of the capers and parsley in oil spooned over the top and slices of the lemon that cooked with the fish on the side.

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This is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging, hosted this week by Anna from Anna's Cool Finds.

Recipes: Fig Tapenade, Garlicky Goat Cheese Spread, and Garlic Croutons

When I was shopping for Christmas Eve dinner, I spied a tempting display of organic dried fruits. I succumbed to the call of black mission figs, and brought home a large bag. When the time came for holiday entertaining, I turned to the figs.

Several months ago, I’d read a recipe for fig and olive tapenade. I love tapenade, a Provençal paste of black olives, anchovies, capers, herbs, garlic, lemon, and olive oil, so decided to pair it with my bounty of figs. Unfortunately, I couldn’t remember where I’d read about fig tapenade, a distressing complication of owning too many cookbooks.

I did find a few recipes for tapenade with figs on the internet, but either the ingredient list or procedure didn’t appeal to me, so I was stuck with creating my own version. I started with a basic tapenade, left out the anchovies, and added figs and a healthy dose of wild thyme.

The sweet figs and salty olives and capers combine to form a deliciously vibrant spread. I made it this morning, enjoyed Fig Tapenade and Rosemary Bread for lunch, and brought the rest to a New Year’s Eve party tonight.

The best thing about Fig Tapenade is how easy it is to make. The ingredients are simply tossed into the food processor and processed until smooth. The flavor comes from good ingredients, not hard work on the part of the cook.

Fig Tapenade is rich and flavorful. It can be served on its own with crusty bread, or dressed up, as I did tonight, with Garlicky Goat Cheese Spread and Croutons.

Fig Tapenade
Makes about 2 cups
Although it may be tempting to buy pitted olives, their flavor pales in comparison to that of olives with pits. To easily pit Kalamata olives, spread them out on a cutting board and smash each olive with a meat pounder or other heavy object. After being pounded, the pits slip right out of the olives.

1 cup dried black mission figs
1 1/2 cups Kalamata olives
2 Tbsp. capers, preferably salt-cured
1 Tbsp. dried thyme, crushed
1 Tbsp. minced fresh rosemary
1 Tbsp. chopped garlic
3 Tbsp. lemon juice
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup olive oil

Cut any stems off the figs, and cut the figs into quarters. Rinse, drain, and dry the olives and capers. Remove the pits from the olives.

Place all the ingredients, except the olive oil, in a food processor, and process until the ingredients are chopped into small pieces. While the machine is running, pour in the olive oil and continue processing until the ingredients form a smooth paste. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and process again. Place in a glass container and refrigerate for at least 3 hours before serving.

Garlicky Goat Cheese Spread
Makes 2 cups
If you prefer mild hints of garlic, use the smaller amount; bolder palates may prefer the full measure. Garlicky Goat Cheese Spread may be served in a bowl, or unmolded onto a platter. If you want to serve it unmolded, line a bowl large enough to hold the spread with plastic wrap. Spoon the spread into the plastic-lined bowl, press down to remove any air pockets, and cover the spread with plastic wrap. To unmold, open up the plastic wrap so the spread is exposed, invert the bowl onto a platter, then remove the bowl and plastic wrap.

1 – 3 cloves garlic
1/2 tsp. salt
1 cup (8 ounces) chèvre (soft goat cheese)
1/2 cup mascarpone or cream cheese
1/2 cup whole-milk yogurt or sour cream

Puree the garlic by mashing it together with the salt either in a mortar and pestle or on a cutting board with the flat side of a knife blade. Mash the pureed garlic, chèvre, mascarpone, and yogurt together (this may be done in a food processor). Refrigerate for at least 3 hours before serving.

Garlic Croutons

1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 cup butter, melted
1/4 tsp. salt
2 baguettes, cut into thin slices

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl. Brush the garlic butter-oil mixture onto one side of each baguette slice. Put the buttered baguette slices in one layer on a baking sheet and cook for 10 – 15 minutes, or until the bread slices are crispy.

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This is my entry for A Fruit of the Month: Dried Fruit hosted by The 'Yum' Blog. It is also my entry for Antioxidant Rich Foods/5-a-Day Tuesdays sponsored by Sweetnicks.

Seven Seafoods 2007: Recipe for Scallops Piccata (Χτένια Πικάντικο)

Scallops Piccata, with its vibrant lemon sauce, is a variation of Veal Piccata, a classic Italian dish. Although purists may claim capers don’t belong in Piccata sauce, I enjoy the piquant flavors of capers and lemon together. Capers also pair particularly well with seafood, so I included them in my Scallops Piccata recipe.

Capers are sold pickled or preserved in salt. Salt helps retain the subtle floral flavor of capers, which too often is overwhelmed by the vinegar used during pickling. For this reason, I recommend using salt-cured capers whenever capers are used uncooked or cooked for only a short time, as they are in Scallops Piccata.

Many gourmet stores carry salted capers, and they are available from internet sellers. Salt-cured capers are not cheap, but because of their intense flavor, are worth buying. For more information about capers, go here.

Pan Seared Scallops Piccata (Χτένια Πικάντικο)
Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as an appetizer

4 Tbsp. capers (preferably preserved in salt)
12 large scallops (about 1 pound)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/3 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 Tbsp. butter

If using salt-preserved capers, rinse off the salt and let them soak in cold water for 10 – 15 minutes, and rinse them again. If using brined capers, rinse off the brine. Dry the capers and roughly chop them if they are large.

Wash the scallops, removing any tough muscle clinging to the side of the scallop. Dry and season them on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat the olive oil over high heat in a frying pan large enough to hold the scallops. If you are serving more than two people as a main course, you may need to use two frying pans for this task; scallops too close together in a pan will steam rather than pan-fry.

When the oil is very hot, add the seasoned scallops, and cook for 2 – 3 minutes, depending on the size of the scallops. Turn the scallops over and cook for 2 – 3 minutes more. Except for turning them over the one time, do not move the scallops or fidget with them while they cook. The scallops will brown better if they aren’t repeatedly turned.

While the scallops are cooking, warm up a plate (this is easiest to do in a microwave; put the dry plate in the microwave for 1 minute on high). When the scallops are done, put them on the warmed plate while you make the sauce.

Add the lemon juice and white wine to the frying pan, scraping up any browned bits or caramelization on the bottom of the pan. Cook until the liquid has reduced to 1/3 cup. Turn off the heat and whisk in the butter, 1 Tbsp. at a time. Stir in 3 Tbsp. of the capers.

Spoon a pool of sauce onto each of 2 (or 4) plates, top with the browned scallops, and sprinkle with the remaining capers.

Recipes: Caper Tart & Capers and Eggs (Καπαρόπιτα & Κάπαρη με τ’Αυγά)

The rocky hills and sea cliffs of Greece’s Aegean islands provide the harsh environment thorny caper plants need to thrive. Capers are an important wild edible in Greece; their flower buds, berries, and leaves add piquant flavors to island cuisine.

Archeological evidence shows that Mediterranean people have eaten capers for at least 18,000 years. By the time of the ancient Greeks, capers’ use as a favored condiment was well-documented. Theophrastus, chronicler of Greek plants used in the third and fourth centuries BCE, advised that wild capers growing on rocky cliffs were pungent and delicious, while capers grown on cultivated land were much less desirable.

On Greek islands today, women head for the rocky shores in June to hand-gather caper buds before the plant flowers. Since caper plants produce buds over a period of weeks, harvesters return to the same plant time and time again. In Η Κουζίνα της Κιμώλου (The Cuisine of Kimolos), Filena Venardou calls caper-gathering tedious, but says by summer’s end, cupboards of every island home are stocked with enough capers to last the year.

Caper buds are preserved three different ways: pickled in brine (the most common way capers are sold in America), cured in salt, or dried in the sun. I prefer salt-cured capers because the salt concentrates and enhances the capers’ sharp floral flavors, rather than overpowering them as brine can do. In Alaska, salt-cured capers are sold only in specialty stores and are expensive, so I use brined capers for cooking, leaving the salt-cured ones for use in salads and sauces that aren’t heated.

On the Greek island of Kimolos, islanders prefer curing capers in salt. To do this, Venardou says capers are well-cleaned, packed in coarse salt, and stored in glass containers. Prepared this way, capers will last indefinitely.

When a caper bush is allowed to flower, it forms an edible fruit called a caperberry. In Greece, caperberries are pickled in vinegar, and served with beans or fish, or as an appetizer with ouzo. Caper leaves are also pickled and used as a condiment to accompany fish or chicken, or added to salads.

Adapting one of Venardou’s recipes, I recently made scrambled eggs loaded with capers. Venardou described Capers and Eggs (recipe below) as succulent and unique, with the dominant flavor of capers. The resulting dish was unusual and delicious, but even for caper-lovers, more suited to lunch or dinner than breakfast, when we normally enjoy eggs.

While contemplating the interesting flavor combination of Venardou’s dish, the idea for a Caper Tart popped into my mind. The idea was so fully realized that my mouth immediately started to water. I imagined serving the tart with salmon; its richness would complement the sharp flavor of capers. I couldn’t wait to try this combination, so we had both dishes for dinner that night.

Caper Tart was an immediate hit, and an ideal accompaniment for pan-fried salmon. While mixing the tart’s filling, I added soft white cheese and thyme to bridge the gap between mild, slightly sweet eggs and piquant capers. A crisp olive-oil crust took the place of bread in the meal, and its flavor and texture added complexity to the tart.

Caper Tart is relatively easy to make. While its flavors mesh beautifully with salmon, it would be delicious with any kind of fish or poultry, served on its own with a crisp green salad, or as part of an appetizer spread. The leftovers are tasty eaten cold, especially because the olive-oil crust retains its integrity even after days in the refrigerator.

Caper Tart (Καπαρόπιτα)
Makes one 9-inch tart. Serves 4 -6.
Using a little butter in the crust (filo) isn’t traditional (nor is this tart), but it adds good flavor and flakiness. Olive oil can fully replace the butter, and the crust will still be tasty, but slightly tougher. More water is needed to make the crust if butter is left out. The dough may also be made by hand. If mixing by hand, make sure the olive oil is evenly distributed in the flour and use a fork or pastry cutter to add the butter.

Crust (Filo):
1 1/2 cups flour
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. cold butter, cut into small chunks
3 – 5 Tbsp. ice water

Filling:
1/2 cup capers in brine
2 cups diced onions, 1/4” dice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp. dried thyme, crushed, plus 1 tsp. for sprinkling over tart
2 eggs
1/2 cup manouri, ricotta, or mascarpone cheese
1/2 cup feta, crumbled

For the crust: In a food processor, mix the flour, salt, and olive oil until the olive oil is thoroughly incorporated into the flour. Add the butter and pulse three or four times to break up and distribute the butter; when you are done, the butter pieces should be the size of small lentils. Add 3 Tbsp. ice water and pulse to mix. Pinch together some of the dough to see if it holds together. If it does not, add small amounts of water, pulsing to mix, until the dough holds together when pinched. Dump the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap and knead lightly until the dough holds together. Shape the dough into a flat disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Roll out the dough on a well-floured pastry cloth until it forms a 10-1/2 inch circle. Use the rolling pin to lift the dough and place it over a 9” tart pan with removable bottom. Press the dough firmly into the sides and bottom of the tart pan. Cut the edges of the dough so there is just enough to fold under and cover the sides of the pan with a double layer of dough. Use a fork to prick tiny holes all over the bottom crust.

Press a double layer of aluminum foil into the dough (this will prevent it from forming bubbles when it bakes). Bake the crust for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for 5 minutes or until the crust is set and lightly golden. Remove the tart crust from the oven and place it on a cooling rack. Reduce the oven heat to 350°F.

For the filling: Drain and rinse the capers. Put them in a bowl of cold water to soak for 15 minutes, drain, and spread out the capers on a paper towel to dry.

Sauté the onion, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in olive oil until the onion softens and starts to brown around the edges. Add the capers and 2 tsp. crushed dried thyme and sauté over medium heat for five minutes. Spread the onion and caper mixture over the bottom of the baked tart crust.

Whisk together the egg, cheese, and freshly ground black pepper until they are thoroughly mixed. Pour the egg mixture over the capers and onions, then top with the crumbled feta, making sure all the ingredients are evenly distributed. Sprinkle 1 tsp. of crushed dried thyme over the top of the tart.

Bake the tart at 350°F for 35 – 40 minutes, or until the top of the filling just starts to brown.

Remove the tart from the pan and serve hot or at room temperature.

Capers and Eggs (Κάπαρη με τ’Αυγά)
Serves 2
Adapted from Η Κουζίνα της Κιμώλου (The Cuisine of Kimolos) by Φιλένα Βενάρδου (Filena Venardou).

4 eggs
1 cup diced yellow onions, 1/8” dice
1/2 cup capers
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Drain and rinse the capers. Put them in a bowl of cold water to soak for 15 minutes, drain, and spread out the capers on a paper towel to dry.

Sauté the onion, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in olive oil until the onion softens and starts to brown around the edges. Add the capers and sauté over medium heat for five minutes. Turn the heat down to low.

Whisk together the eggs and some freshly ground black pepper. Pour the eggs over the capers and onions and allow the eggs to slightly set. When the eggs start to solidify, stir them continuously with a spatula, being sure to scrape the eggs from the sides of the pan, until the eggs are cooked through, but still moist.

Serve with Greek Village Bread (a recipe is in Tastes Like Home: Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska) and slices of manouri or ricotta salata cheese.
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This is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging #112, sponsored this week by Simona at Briciole.