Devil's Club Towering Over Teeny MetcalfeTreadwell Mine, Douglas, Alaska
Photograph by Ray Brudie
Devil’s club leaf shoots are the ultimate seasonal treat – they’re edible for only a few days a year and taste wonderful. They have a resiny, almost piney, odor when first picked that is tamed, but doesn’t dissipate entirely, when heated. Cooked devil's club shoots have a uniquely energizing and complex flavor that tastes like nothing else I’ve ever eaten.
In spring, I check the devil’s club on our property daily, anxious lest I miss the narrow harvesting window. Once they’re ready, we immediately head out with bags and baskets in hand to pick our fill of this unusual spring green.
When I mention how good devil’s club shoots taste, I often get looks of disbelief from those who have fallen victim to the spines that cover its stalks and leaves.
Devil’s club (Echinopanax horridum, also known as Oplopanax horridus) is the bane of hikers and bushwhackers in coastal forests from southcentral Alaska to northern California and east to Montana. It's also found on a few islands in Lake Superior.
Devil's club's sharp spines painfully puncture skin and can be difficult to dislodge. Because it’s such a large plant and grows in wide swaths, devil’s club renders impassable the areas where it’s found in abundance.
Close up of Devil's Club leaf spines before they harden
In spring, before it has leaves, patches of devil’s club look like dried brown sticks, covered from top to bottom with nasty spines. When the leaf buds first appear, they’re cloaked in a thin brown sheath.
Once the leaf buds break through their inedible sheaths, and are 1” – 2” long, they are edible. At this stage, their leaf spines are soft and pliable. When the spines harden, the leaf shoots can no longer be eaten.
Harvesting devil’s club shoots can be tricky because it requires you to carefully pick your way through large patches of prickly stalks, which hurt if you grab them. The ground where devil’s club grows is uneven and often moist, so great care must be taken not to fall among the painful spines.
It’s also important to wear sturdy clothes when harvesting devil’s club. If you brush against a stalk of devil’s club, the spines can embed themselves in your clothing and try to work their way through to your skin.
When you’re done harvesting, check your clothes over carefully and remove any lurking spines, or they’ll stab you the next time you wear the clothes.
How to Harvest Devil’s Club Shoots
Carefully grasp the green leaf bud, bend it down, and it will snap off. Be careful how you do this, as you can easily drive the surrounding spines into your hand as you’re breaking off the bud. I learned this lesson the hard way; and more than once.
Blanched Devil's Club ShootsHow to Prepare Devil’s Club Shoots for Use in Recipes
Carefully pick through the devil’s club shoots and discard any twigs, leaves, spines, damaged shoots, or leaf sheaths. Wash twice in cold water to remove all extraneous debris. Fill a clean sink or large bowl with cold water. Blanch the cleaned shoots in a large pot of boiling salted water for 2 minutes. Drain the shoots and immediately plunge them into the cold water. Drain well. The devil’s club shoots are now ready to use in recipes, and may be frozen for later use.
Unless I’m finely chopping or puréeing the greens, I separate the multiple leaf shoots that make up a single devil’s club leaf bud. There are both male and female leaf buds; the females have a tiny green cone in the center that eventually will flower. Both types of leaf buds are edible.
Sautéed Devil’s Club Shoots with Onions
Serves 4
Sautéed Devil’s Club Shoots go well with Crispy Chicken with Roasted Garlic, any seafood or poultry dish, with pasta, or on their own.
1 cup thinly sliced yellow onions
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbsp. olive oil (use the oil from browning chicken if you are making it)
2 cups cleaned blanched and separated devil’s club shoots (see above)
1/2 tsp. Aleppo pepper (optional)
Sauté the onions, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in olive oil until the onions soften and start to brown. Stir in the blanched devil’s club shoots and Aleppo pepper and cook for 5 minutes, stirring regularly, or until the moisture from the blanched devil’s club has evaporated and the shoots are cooked through. Taste and add salt or freshly ground black pepper, as needed. Serve immediately.
Crispy Chicken with Roasted Garlic
Serves 4 – 6
This recipe is quick and easy; the chicken is crispy without being oily. The soft and sweet roasted garlic goes particularly well with green vegetables, including Sautéed Devil’s Club Shoots with Onions. Be sure and brown the chicken pieces in two batches; if you crowd all the chicken into the pan at one time, the chicken will steam rather than brown.
3 heads garlic
1 4-pound whole chicken, cut up, or 4 pounds chicken thighs
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup olive oil
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Separate the heads of garlic into cloves. Peel the cloves and cut off the hard bits at the root end of the cloves.
Wash the chicken pieces and dry them well. Sprinkle both sides of the chicken pieces with salt and freshly ground black pepper (don’t stint on the seasoning).
Heat the olive oil in a cast iron (or other) skillet until it’s very hot, but not smoking (if the oil is very hot, the chicken skin is less likely to stick to the pan). Place half the chicken pieces in the pan, skin side down, and let cook until the skin is well browned; this takes about 5 minutes on each side. Don’t turn the chicken or fidget with it until the skin is fully browned, or the chicken won’t cook properly. Turn over and brown the other side of the chicken. Put the browned chicken in a roasting pan skin side up. Repeat with the remaining chicken pieces.
When all the chicken is in the roasting pan, add the peeled garlic to the skillet and sauté for 1-2 minutes until the garlic is lightly browned. Evenly distribute the browned garlic among the chicken in the roasting pan.
Bake for 20 – 25 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Separate the pan juices from the fat. Serve with a few cloves of roasted garlic and drizzle with the defatted pan juices.
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This is my entry for Weekend Herb Blogging, hosted this week by Cate of Sweetnicks.
After the Fire: Destruction Bay, Yukon Territories, Canada
In spring, when fireweed first emerges from the ground, its shoots are edible and similar to wild asparagus. As they grow, fireweed stalks remain edible in the sense they aren’t harmful to humans but, for me, become unacceptably bitter. The larger the shoots and the more developed the leaves, the more bitter they taste.
The sweetest fireweed shoots are those cut when the leaves are still reddish. The blanched, underground portion is the sweetest part of the shoots, so I slip the knife several inches underground to harvest fireweed.
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